W0UI MORSE CODE KEY COLLECTION
at www.w0ui.com
(There are lots of photos -
please be patient whilst they load)
My first code key (age 8 in 1963) for code practice was home
made using
scrap metal, washers and a rough cut piece of wood (see picture
below).
Learning the code starting at age
8, I was first licensed in 1966 at the age of 11.
Since then the International
Morse Code has remained,
to this day, as my primary amateur radio mode of
communications.
I believe that those who do not learn and use this valuable
communications resource
are limiting themselves in ways they'll never begin to
understand.
Since the only language I am
really good at is English,
morse code was the natural choice allowing me to communicate
with hams throughout
the international amateur radio community.
It's interesting to note that in recent Hollywood movies when all else fails,
communications via traditional International Morse Code still works.
Consider such films as: Independence Day, Transformers and perhaps others.
The following code keys are part
of the my "collection,"
which is essentially the group of keys that to
this day
make up my amateur radio console and operation.
SIGNAL ELECTRIC MANUFACTURING COMPANY
MODEL R-63 1/4-inch contact Heavy Duty Key
This late 1930's era lacquered
brass key, similar to a Speed-X Model 321 key, was made by the
Signal Electric Manufacturing Company in Menominee,
Michigan and featured what was called a "Navy-type knob."
Electrical
isolation (on the bottom of the key) was achieved by adding thin slices of mica
cut from rock.
who owned and operated the Michigan Academy of Radio Science in
Detroit and
Kalamazoo, Michigan through the late 1930s.
Former notable MARS staff and student
Wayne Chapman (WB4DND/W8IKR sk) and Carl E Lee (W8TZJ)
Kenneth J. Buck, Sr. was killed in action while serving
on the
US Minesweeper, the USS Skill (AM-115) off the coast of Italy.
According to a web page at: http://k8ir.com/signal/Brochure.htm
HEAVY DUTY KEY (Navy Type)
This model represents the very finest in key design.
Built to the most exacting engineering specifications.
The rugged and sturdy all brass construction of this key has made it a
particularly popular model with shipboard operators.
Fine balance and accurate adjustments.
Comes equipped with navy type plastic knob.
Furnished with 3/16, 1/4 or 3/8 inch finest coin silver contacts.
Model R-63 List price was $4.50
SIGNAL ELECTRIC MANUFACTURING COMPANY
MODEL R-48 1/4-inch contact Standard Key
This key, by the same company, was
attached to this board.
For years, I laid it across my lap as I drove around the
country on vacations or to/from work.
It provided countless hours of mobile code
(CW) conversations.
According to a web page at: http://k8ir.com/signal/Brochure.htm
STANDARD KEY (Navy Type)
Well designed and correctly balanced.
For the operator who wants a good standard key at a moderate price.
Very clean design, with polished key lever and lacquered fittings.
Equipped with platinor contacts.
Model R-48 List $3.65
1986 VIBROPLEX
VIBROKEYER
One of many "How to date your
Vibroplex" sites is at:
http://www.radiotelegraphy.net/vibroplexdating.htm
My mentor, Ernie Longman (W8DA) - SK
My amateur radio mentor, Ernie
Longman (W8DA, formerly W8SCU),
never spent much time using his Astatic D-104 microphone.
All
his ham radio work I ever observed was done using the International Morse Code.
Unfortunately,
Ernie became a "Silent Key" during the Winter of 2002-3.
His widow,
Marion Longman (K8IZN, SK 2012), gave Ernie's 1986 Vibrokeyer to me as a memento gift.
1956
VIBROPLEX BLUE
RACER STANDARD
One of many "How to date your
Vibroplex" sites is at:
http://www.radiotelegraphy.net/vibroplexdating.htm
The key (below) I had bought from
Tony
Lameika (WA8GQY, SK 2002) in 1967 at age 12 for $15
(he let me make payments from my Jackson Citizen Patriot newspaper route).
I always thought the original blue-gray color was a bit ugly but
it worked just fine.
Over the years I used it as either a true semi-automatic or
keyer paddle
(slight, non-permanent rewiring since undone).
Above: My Blue Racer in 1967, age
12.
Also you can see my grandfather's hand key.
(L-R: Johnson Adventurer
transmitter, Hammarlund
HQ-110c receiver)
In the late 1990's the original
paint was peeling off badly.
I contacted Vibroplex to see if they would restore
the key for me
but they replied that they no longer had the original proper blue
paint
nor could they restore the orange painted labeling on the base that had read
"Blue Racer - Standard."
Since I was intending to restore my Vibroplex
Presentation "bug,"
I figured I'd have my Blue Racer
"updated" as well.
I took the bug all apart and took
the base to an auto bumper replating service.
The fellow there stripped the
original paint, nickel and then gold plated the unit for me at a cost of about
$90.
At the advise of the bumper replating facility, we did first nickel plating the
base to encourage the gold to stick better.
Without it, the gold would likely begin to flake off after a few years - BUT -
IMPORTANT NOTE - Found on the web page at:
http://www.radioblvd.com/telegraph_keys.htm
Many of the Deluxe models
suffer from pitting in the chrome plated base.
Since the base was steel, it had to be copper plated first, then nickel plated
and finally chrome plated.
If any contamination was present on the steel surface,
especially common in very small surface porosities,
the plating process would be compromised at those small points.
Most of the time the areas were so small they went unnoticed.
After exposure to a humid area, corrosion begins at the small pin-point areas
and it develops over time
Too bad I did not know the above before restoring my two bugs.
I did not first copper plate them.
Now, ten years after, I regret to say that I am starting to see some unexpected
changes in the appearance of the gold.
Although, with care, I suspect these bugs will survive the rest of my natural
life,
I would strongly recommend you heed the advice cited from the aforementioned
webpage when restoring yours.
.
After
getting the base back, I had the underside engraved by a professional engraver
and then reassembled it.
Below is the final result. It may not be totally
original but, golly, is it ever pretty!
WILLIAM M. NYE
SPEEDX HAND KEY
During 1947, the E. F. Johnson
company acquired the Speedx trademark from the Speed-X Radio Manufacturing
Company
(from the 1930's). Johnson made the keys until the late 1960's.
During
1975, the William M. Nye Company bought the Speed-X trademark from Johnson and
these newly issued hand keys were brought to market.
1934-1937 era (STEWART
JOHNSON) SPEED-X KEY
Based on available facts it appears that this bug was built by the
Speed-X Radio Manufacturing Company
while under the ownership of Stewart Johnson.
In 2009 a family friend from
church, STAN G,
gave Woody a morse code key that had belonged to his
father-in-law,
Cecil O Smith (W9JUT sk - licensed in 1932).
As was the case with all Speed-X keys built in this era,
this key carries no verifiable manufacturer data, serial numbers
or other identifying marks.
It is hard to believe any professional manufacturer would
create and sell any product without a manufacturer's name and/or serial
number
such as was the case with this company.
This does make it hard to verify the actual build date.
To this end we are forced to use available facts from family records and/or
memory.
Additional information was found at: http://www.radioblvd.com/telegraph_keys.htm
Speed-X Radio Manufacturing Co.
The Speed-X name is first associated with Electro Manufacturing
Co. located in Fresno, California.
In 1934, Stewart Johnson bought the Speed-X name and relocated the company to
San Francisco.
Johnson changed the name of the company to Speed-X Radio Manufacturing Company
and the address was 30 Ninth St. in San Francisco.
Johnson built Speed-X keys from 1934 until he sold the company to Les Logan in
1937.
.... Earlier Speed-X bugs will have the combination of knob and paddle but
the later Speed-X bugs use two paddles instead.
EARLY TELEGRAPH
PRACTICE SET
These early combination telegraph
keys and sounders were fairly common in the late 1800 and early 1900's.
They
served as both practice tools (all you had to do was add a simple 1.5 volt dry
cell battery) and
also could be used as part of an on line service.
It wasn't
too long, however, before the professional telegraphers had moved
away from the
"straight key" and into the semi-automatic "bugs" (mentioned
above)
for most telegraphic traffic.
HEATHKIT HD-1410 AUTOMATIC KEYER
This keyer was popular in the
amateur radio service during the 1970's.
I used mine in mobile service in my
Chevrolet Suburban for several years,
attached to a specially formulated bracket
that positioned it near my right knee.
My original unit is still near my current
operating console.
A slight circuit modification
enhanced the older keyer's ability to work
with both older "vintage"
and/or newer "current technology" amateur equipment.
Below is a
schematic indicating the modification.
HEATHKIT HD-10 KEYER
I bought this keyer at a hamfest.
This particular
unit had been previously modified.
Someone added a "weighting circuit"
enabling longer dits and dahs.
Recently I have been downsizing
my collection of code keys.
To this end, the following keys are no longer part of my lineup.
BROWN BROTHERS
CTL-B COMBO
PADDLE / KEY
Below: The Brown Brothers Machine
Company (St. Louis, MO) Model CTL-B combination paddle / hand key.
I sold this key via eBay during 2012.
1955
VIBROPLEX ORIGINAL
DeLUXE PRESENTATION
SEMI-AUTOMATIC MORSE CODE KEY
I sold this key via eBay during
2012.
One of many "How to date your Vibroplex"
sites is at:
http://www.radiotelegraphy.net/vibroplexdating.htm
The original chrome base and gold top
plate on my
1955
Vibroplex ORIGINAL DeLUXE PRESENTATION
both
had spots of rust and deterioration.
With the addition of the gold plate atop the chrome-plated base,
the Original DeLuxe was also known as a "Presentation"
The post WW2 units (circa 1945 to 1960) had the addition of a "jewelled-movement"
identified by,
not a standard adjustment but rather, a red dot on the top of the chrome frame.
I took the unit all apart and took it to
the same auto bumper replater previously mentioned
(see the discussion about the
Vibroplex Blue Racer above).
At the advise of the bumper replating facility, we did first nickel plating the
base to encourage the gold to stick better.
Without it, the gold would likely begin to flake off after a few years - BUT -
IMPORTANT NOTE - Found on the web page at:
http://www.radioblvd.com/telegraph_keys.htm
Many of the Deluxe models
suffer from pitting in the chrome plated base.
Since the base was steel, it had to be copper plated first, then nickel plated
and finally chrome plated.
If any contamination was present on the steel surface,
especially common in very small surface porosities,
the plating process would be compromised at those small points.
Most of the time the areas were so small they went unnoticed.
After exposure to a humid area, corrosion begins at the small pin-point areas
and it develops over time
Too bad I did not know the above before restoring my two bugs.
I did not first copper plate them.
Now, ten years after, I regret to say that I am starting to see some unexpected
changes in the appearance of the gold.
Although, with care, I suspect these bugs will survive the rest of my natural
life,
I would strongly recommend you heed the advice cited from the aforementioned
webpage when restoring yours.
Additionally, we re-gold plated the gold top piece.
To take off the top gold plate that sits atop the actual base,
carefully remove the Vibroplex serial number tag
(note the two small pin holes on the bottom of the base).
Use a small nail (or "tack") and gently tap out the two pins.
After World War Two,
professional and amateur radio telegraphers saw the
introduction of "electronic keyers" that, in many ways,
rendered the traditional bug obsolete.
Due to the comparative rarity of the original production series,
it appears that these early post World War II
Original DeLuxe "Presentation" model bugs
are now drawing higher prices amongst serious collectors.
Original - Before restoration | ![]() |
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After restoration | ![]() |
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![]() To remove the Vibroplex serial number plate and the top gold plate carefully tap out the pins via the two small holes on the bottom |
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